jeneric journeys

From the onset, we acknowledge that our opportunity to go slow and live simply is a result of our good fortune and privilege. The irony is not lost on us that our ability to experience this “simplicity” is due to hard work and decent luck, but most importantly, being born into families that had stability, the resources to educate us (and much more), instill a sense of confidence that allowed us to be adventurous, and made it possible for us to set our sights beyond meeting the bare necessities of life. With that caveat as the cornerstone of our gratitude, the last week has been one of slowing down, breathing deeply, and appreciating the simplicity of both people and place. 

When we last left you, the adrenaline was still pumping as we acclimated to the daily chaos of life in a Central American city (and Eric recovering from his playtime with the shark).  Since then, we have been building a slow rhythm of working (often on a pier or rooftop overlooking the ocean), walking down now familiar streets, continuing to explore, making new friends, and never once feeling the need to turn on the TV (the exception being the unfortunate Lions loss in the NFL playoffs).

Life in San Pedro is slow, but it doesn’t even compare to the real SLOW DOWN one feels on the nearby island called Caye Caulker (CC). We headed to this slow-living island where locals (only half-jokingly) threaten to give you a speeding ticket for walking too fast. On CC, there are only sand streets, a few golf carts, and a good number of old school bikes – many of which seem to have been leftover from the 1970s. As we walked from the water taxi to our hotel, there was literally music in the air, laughter in the wind, and the smells of jerk chicken wafting off the many open-air barbeques that lined the street. CC also emanated a sense of youthful optimism – most likely because this is a common stop on the Central American “backpacker trail.”  Backpackers abound and it was easy to be seminally influenced by their sense of adventure and care-free attitude. The CC crowd enjoyed simple cooking that was often mouth-watering BBQ, fresh fish, and rice and beans scooped out onto an array of mismatched plates. Strolling down sand roads with a cold beer in hand, we found joy in conversations with friendly strangers on beaches littered with coconut husks and, unfortunately, some actual trash, which is among the most disappointing parts of living in Central America.

While on CC, we did a lot of nothing, so not much to report in terms of adventures.  However, the afternoon we spent at “Bliss Beach” which sits on the mostly uninhabited part of CC was aptly named and would be a not-miss destination if you ever find yourself on CC!  Finding your way to Bliss Beach requires a quick boat ride to the North side of the Island and a leisurely bike ride (as long as you are careful to avoid the many pot-holes) on a sand road/path. The ride home was especially sublime during the waning minutes of sunlight. While there, time holds no meaning as the hours tick by surrounded by the beauty of the aqua seas, the sound of waves crashing, and the gentle breeze keeping us comfortable under our shade tree.

The other highlight in CC was Iguana Reef where you could stand in the water while friendly sting rays ranging from 3 to 6 feet in length would glide over your feet for a quick caress.  If you ever have a chance to pet a sting ray, take it! The undersides of their wings are velvety soft and it is a wonderful tactile experience! This was also the place we got to spot and observe seahorses in the wild – a bucket-list item, for sure.

A comment on the people of CC and San Pedro – they are some of the kindest and most content people you will ever meet. If there is an affluent local part of town in San Pedro or CC, we have yet to find it. Sure, these are mainly tourist destinations, but there is an integration of locals and tourists living side by side. Poverty here is generational, deeply rooted, and exists not in the shadows, but side by side with the beaches, restaurants, and hotels. However, we have yet to see a homeless person, beggar, or even a harassing vendor. Wherever you go, your eyes are met with a smile and an earnest and pleasant hello.

This is our neighbor. Our window looks directly on her house. Here, she is hanging her laundry, but most often, we see her chasing her young child in and out of the house, both of them squealing with delight. When the sibling is around, they are clearly deeply involved in pretend play using a cardboard box and old tires. It is easy to observe the affection between members of this family. They don’t have much, but they do seem to have happiness.

As a testament to the innate good will and helpful disposition of the Belizeans, we offer up this anecdote (also our biggest adventure of the week)…….

As we returned from CC, we retrieved our golf cart, which was exactly where we had left it 3 days earlier, and we started back to our apartment a few miles away.  A few minutes into the ride, we heard an unsettling sound coming from the front driver-side wheel and then after taking a turn, the sound stopped…. But only because the wheel flew off the golf cart!  It was after-hours and we not could not get in touch with the rental company, and as far as I know, there is no AAA on Ambergris Caye.  So, when living simply you do the simple thing – Eric lifted the front of the cart and Jen nudged the wheel back onto the axle. Surprisingly, it worked and we were off, but only momentarily before we were once again “three-wheeling” down the street.  So we tried it again… and again.  Definition of insanity? Nope, just perseverance and stubbornness (mostly on Eric’s part).  At some point, a local couple behind us noticed our situation and without hesitation, offered to help.  Even though Eric tried to brush them off (stupid male ego), they persisted and next thing we knew, Jen was in their golf cart with his wife, and the husband was driving our golf car (from the passenger seat) while Eric was keeling over on the back of the golf cart so it could be successfully driven on only 3 wheels (unfortunately, no pictures exist of this death defying feat)!  A few miles later, we were safely at our apartment due to the kindness of these local strangers.  Before we could offer to take them out for a drink or even properly thank them, they had driven away. We have seen these types of interactions over and over – between locals and tourists, between tourists and tourists, and between locals and locals – it’s just the way things are done here. And it is the best kind of contagion.  

The other highlight of this week has been making new friends (most won’t last, but some may).  This is definitely part and parcel to vacationing – it’s easy to talk to the people sitting next to you at hermit crab racing at a local bar…I mean, you are sharing a ridiculously funny experience. But even more, there is no stigma in just striking up a conversation with a stranger wherever you may find yourself. This is not dissimilar from the welcoming atmosphere of the Burning Man community we have enjoyed (but definitely a lot more tame and less physically taxing). Reflecting on this, the same question bubbles up – why can’t we bring this attitude to our everyday lives?  It’s the rare individual who has this innate ability (Adam E. and Mateo – we’re looking at you!) to consistently, and of generous spirit and curiosity, strike up a conversation with strangers. This is a skill we have decided to improve.  A simple conversation goes a long way in repairing humanity and is also a lot more fulfilling and entertaining than being glued to a screen.

Wishing you all the ability to find time and ways to GO SLOW and live simply.